CROKETTE!
Crokette is a mini crokinole game I made using a laser cutter and some off the shelf pieces. I make and sell these for cheap. I also offer free plans for you to build your own! I designed the game to be portable and easy to play anywhere. If you have a laser cutter, some polyurethane, some glue, and some time, it's pretty easy to make for yourself!
Rules
Purchase
Free laser cutter plans
Rules:
Crokette is played exactly like Crokinole, so if you already know how to play Crokinole, you're good to go!
Overview:
Two players sit on opposite sides of the board.
They take turns flicking discs of their color.
Once both players have flicked 8 discs, the discs on the board (and those that scored in the center spot) are tallied.
Scoring from inner-ring to outer-ring is 20 (center spot), 15, 10, 5.
The lower score is subtracted from the higher score.
The higher scoring player earns the remaining points.
Rounds are played this way until one player reaches 100 points.
Detail:
The outer ring of the board is broken up into 4 quadrants. Players sit opposite each other and place one of the quadrants in front of them.
On their turn, a player places their disc on the line on the board closest to them, making sure not to place the disc beyond either bordering radial line on the left or right of their quadrant (touching this line is ok, however).
The player then flicks their disc towards the center of the board.
When no opponent is present on the board:
A player may freely attempt to shoot directly into the 20 center-spot. Successful shots into the 20-hole are removed from the board and placed on the scoreboard for later scoring.
Discs may only remain on the board as long as one ACTIVE DISC is fully within the 15-point line (it can't even be touching the 15-point line).
An "active disc" is defined as one that was flicked, and any disc that the flicked-disc touches.
If no active discs are fully within the 15-point region, all active discs are removed from the board.
However, if at least one of the active discs ends up within the 15-point region, all discs remain on the board and the next player starts their turn.
When at least one opponent disc is on the board:
An active disc must make contact with an opposing player's disc.
Discs may remain on the board even if they are outside of the 15-point region, so long as an active disc made contact with an opponent's disc.
If a disc should ever land on (or touch) the outer ring, it is removed from play.
After each player has played 8 discs, scoring happens.
Scoring:
Each player tallies their points. 20s should have been set aside on the score board - don't forget to count those.
Only one player scores each round. So that means the player who has the larger score subtracts the lower scoring player's points from theirs and scores the difference.
Example scoring:
Player 1 scores 45 points
Player 2 scores 15 points
Subtracting Player 2's 15 points from Player 1's 45 points means that Player 1 earns 30 points for the round.
Keep playing, alternating who starts each round.
The game ends when a player scores 100 (or more) points at the end of a round.
Purchasing Info:
Click the buy-now button below to purchase one of these boards (includes score tracker box and discs) for $30 - shipping is included in this price. I'm currently only taking US orders. Sorry! If you're outside of the United States and want to figure out shipping prices, email me (sam.brelsfoard+crokinole AT gmail DOT com).
Free Laser Cutter Plans
These plans are designed for xTool Studio. I'll work on getting more generic plans up sometime, if there's interest.
- The board: crokette-v3.xs
- The score box: score-box-crokette.xs
You'll also need to purchase:
16 wooden discs - diameter: 3/4"(19mm), thickness: 1/8"(3.175mm)
16 metal discs: diameter: 3/4"(19mm), thickness: 0.05"(1.3mm)
1 thin wood dowel: 1/8"(3.175mm)
You'll need to dye half of the discs a color, I chose black. I used simple black stain from the hardware store. I keep the other half of the discs natural wood.
I glue the metal discs to the wood discs using contact cement
Cut the dowels into appropriate length pieces, around .6" or 15mm.
I use a wipe-on polyurethane on the board surface. It takes a bunch of coats to build up an appropriate shiny/slick surface. I sand lightly between the early coats and after coat 4 or 5 I start using a very fine steel-wool between coats. After the final coat I use a piece of brown paper to smooth it out.
Finally, I apply a coat of caranuba wax (car wax) to the board - let it sit for 15 mins, then wipe it off - this creates a perfect, slick surface.